Expedition in the Northern Indian Himalayan region
When one hears of the Himalayas, one imagines high, inaccessible and somewhat mysterious mountains neatly packed on the Asian continent. Many dream to set their eyes on the horizon of the infinite snowy peaks which inspire grandeur and magnificence. When one plans to visit the Himalayas, one mostly thinks of Nepal, a country that houses some of the highest and most accessible mountains. I would like to direct the reader’s attention to a different region of the Himalayas: the Indian side. Northwestern India is a hidden gem for mountaineers and trekkers. The States of Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand have unique cultures and histories and are gateways to the Himalayas. Just south of the popular Ladakh region situated in the Kashmir State lies the less travelled – at least by Westerners – Himachal Pradesh. I recently discovered Himachal Pradesh and would like to share my experience from the point of view of a young aspiring mountaineer and a lover of travel.
Find a suitable mountain for me.
As I travelled in India in June 2019 for a month looking for mountains, I knew I wanted to visit Spiti Valley. I arrived to the vibrant town of Shimla in Himachal Pradesh without a plan or knowledge of anyone who could arrange a serious trek at higher altitudes for me. Having succeeded the ascension of Stok Kangri (6,125m/20,095 ft.) in Ladakh in 2017 and attempted Cotopaxi in Ecuador in 2018, my realistic challenging goal involved a 6000m summit. But how to find a suitable mountain for me in the endless sea of mountains? How to find the right mountain guide? As usual, I did not prepare much ahead of time. I just went ahead with the belief that I would find what I needed at the right time and place. There are thousands of peaks in the Himalayas and the opportunities are endless. With my strong belief in responsible tourism, I was definitely going to meet and hire someone locally.
In an unpredictable turn of events and through a reference, I met Mr. Hem Singh Thakur from Trans India. Mr. Thakur presented himself as an experienced mountaineer and tour operator. From the first minutes of our conversation, I could sense that Mr. Thakur was indeed well-experienced and knowledgeable about the mountains of Himachal Pradesh and more. He gave me honest advice and as we talked, a beautiful and exciting itinerary started to come to life. I would travel to Spiti and Pin Valleys and experience the ancient Buddhist culture of the region. I would trek and sleep in a tent and acclimatize to higher altitudes by gradually going higher. Given the season and safety concerns, I would ascend the Pinbabha Pass instead of the Pinparvati Pass. The cherry on the cake would be ascending Kanamo Mountain (5,960m/19,600ft.). I would see a spectacular view of the Great Himalayan Range as well as experience its harsh dry climate. An experienced mountain guide would come all the way from Manali (about 250km away from Shimla) to accompany me through the journey and ensure my coming back in one piece. I enjoyed the depth of the conversation with Mr. Thakur as well as his respectfulness and professionalism. No preparation or safety detail was overlooked.
The journey begin.
As soon as Kaushal Bhardwaj arrived from his company, Discover Himalaya in Manali, we set off on a long and bumpy two-day mountainous bus ride to Spiti Valley. The journey did not leave us without adventure as we got stuck on the narrow road along the mountain cliffs for hours due to construction work. I was lucky to see how road enlargement is carried out in this place of the world. The mountain rocks are literally broken up by dynamite explosions. The fallen rocks are then cleared out by machinery and by hand. During this process, all traffic is stopped as no vehicle can move in either direction. It was interesting to witness the harsh working and living conditions of the road workers and their families who live in shacks on the sides of the road. I also noticed how basic safety equipment such as helmets and harnesses are missing.
With all the necessary permits in hand and traffic left behind, we finally arrived to Nako, the first village in Spiti Valley. At last, I was able to breathe the cool fresh air of the higher plateau. It was beginning to look and feel like a Tibetan Buddhist area which reminded me of the times I trekked in the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal in 2016 as well as in Ladakh in 2017. I must admit Nako village is really one of the most beautiful Ladakhi villages I have seen and is truly a prototype of the villages in this region.
The following day, we started off travelling by bus but quickly opted for the private taxi car option. The scenery was simply getting more and more beautiful each day. Unique natural phenomena of this part of the world were unraveling in front of our eyes with every passing minute. It only made sense to pay more to be able to enjoy the views from the car windows and to be able to stop at any point for photographs. On our way to Mud Village, our private local young driver stopped at the ancient Tabo Monastery in Tabo Village.
Just when I thought that it could not get any more beautiful and special, we turned into the road leading up to Pin Valley. The villages with their mud houses were set against mountain backgrounds, and the rivers only made them more breathtaking.
We finally arrived at the end of the road and went straight to Mud. To go any further would have to be on a “two-legged taxi.” There was no wifi and no phone line here. The inhabitants only get to know the outside world through the visitors. Time and space take on a completely new form.
It was finally trekking time!
Our legs were going to get a good stretch after those long hours spent on buses and cars. The following day, we set off for the three-day trek to Pinbhaba Pass. We walked along Pin River and watched other smaller rivers flowing into it. All these rivers originate from glaciers and high snowy peaks. The rock formations all around left me wondering about the geological events that shaped all this into existence. Each and every rock and mountain has a story, after all!
We worked hard to activate and acclimatize our bodies as we walked against the wind all day. At last, we crossed the Pin River to get to the camping area before going further towards Bhaba Pass. At the camping site, we were welcomed by local men with their yaks. They helped us set up our tents and prepared some warm chai (tea) without even asking us. Oh, the warm hearts of this part of the world!
The first night was spent at about 4,000m (13,123ft.) above sea level and went well. Despite poor oxymetric scores, I felt great. There was absolutely no reason to go back down. We set out into Bhaba Valley in the morning. The way was not steep but very long. I felt as if I entered another dimension and was now endlessly walking in this new world of eternal winter and whiteness. All this ice and snow is very necessary for the flow of water, which is so crucial for our lives. Ironically, so much life comes out of such seemingly lifeless and remote mountains. One cannot help but feel reverence for these giants! A mental battle had begun as I started feeling the hardship of walking and gradually gaining altitude. A slight windy snowfall began even though, according to Kaushal’s analysis, there was not going to be a snowstorm. The weather conditions were actually perfect to keep going, he said. We finally got to the bottom of the mountain to begin the final ascension towards the Pass. This last part was grueling and seemed never ending. We found a dead baby goat on the way, which was a sad but good reminder of the hostile conditions around us. After a ferocious mental battle, we finally arrived at the Pass (4,890m/16,043ft.). No views welcomed us except for white flags in the wind. White flags (called ‘khatak’ in the local Bhoti language) are placed in sacred Buddhist places. After saying some words of prayer and gratitude, we started going down. Coming back alive and well was a priority in this expedition!
When I reached the camp, I felt a slight headache that went away as soon as I sat down for some tea. Oxymetric measures continued to show fluctuating and unreliable results. Once again, we felt great: tired but healthy, as well as deeply satisfied with the day.
On the road again.
The following day, we came back to Mud village from where we hired another local driver to take us back to Spiti Valley. Our next stops were Kaza and Kibber but not without first visiting the ancient Dankhar and Kee monasteries on the way.
We then spent a night in commercial Kaza. The following day, I did some well-deserved shopping for unique wool shawls, souvenirs, small jewelry and Tibetan decorations. Many Nepali come all the way here to do work and set up guesthouses, restaurants and shops. At last, we arrived to windy Kibber Village for our ultimate mission: the ascension of the Kanamo Mountain.
Maximizing acclimatization.
The day after our arrival, we spent a full day trekking to maximize acclimatization and training. Kaushal found out about a pond with fish considered holy; a good hiking objective for the day. I must admit, the walk still felt challenging because of the altitude. I knew I had to overcome this hardship in order to be fully prepared for the next day. Kaushal and I maintained the strategy of “going very slowly and steadily, and not giving up”. We were curious to discover something new, and we did! We got a glimpse of how farmers work on their land with yaks and yak hybrids. We then saw beautiful views of the Kibber village (4205m/13795 ft.) from above, and sat by the holy lake photographing the breathtaking panoramic views of the peaceful Himalayas in front of us.
The following day, we set out for the second and most important trek with a newly hired young porter guide named Pasang, from Kibber. The efforts I made the previous day had paid off as I felt completely acclimatized. We arrived to the High Base Camp (around 4,800m/15,748ft.) quite early in the day. We had the rest of the day to rest, eat, laugh and prepare for the ascension at night. We went to sleep as soon as the sun went down at 6:30 pm.
Kanamo Mountain.
The wake-up call came at around 1:00 am. We were out of our tents and started walking at 2:00 am sharp in the pitch dark with only headlamps illuminating our way. I felt absolutely great and made good progress throughout the hours of the night. The sun rose and started shining brightly against the snowy part of Kanamo Mountain. The feeling of walking into a “white world” engulfed me once again. During the last 500 metres of elevation, we stood at the bottom of what looked like a hill. We were actually standing at the shoulder of the mountain and were looking straight at its summit. “We should be there in no time,” I thought. The effects of the altitude started kicking in and my pace slowed down. The mental warfare had begun. Every step was a negotiation with my own self; a battle against the torturous desire to give up. Kaushal found the right words at the right time: “we are not getting there, WE ARE THERE! It is right in front of us. The weather is perfect. The mountain is calling us and allowing us to be there. Just keep on walking!” There were patches of rocks that created brown spots in the snow. In my half-delirious mind, they looked like islands. They were separated by about 10 to 15 meters. I started making little goals to go from one island to the next and let myself catch my breath (counting 15 to 20 breaths) as well as sip some water once I reached an “island.” This strategy made me feel slightly energized and kept me going. Endless islands with no end in sight! I felt like I would walk eternally in this bright whiteness spotted with brown patches. “I am already somewhere in the sky and the summit seems so near yet so far! I can almost touch it but cannot arrive there”. At some point, my brain was not getting sufficient oxygen for my mind to think anymore. No more thoughts; what liberation! I counted every step I made. 15 steps, 15 breaths. A sip of water. This simple reward was the most delightful and kept me going. This is all I focused on with a completely blank mind. Until, all of a sudden, Kaushal stepped onto a snowy bump, and I realised he had reached the Summit (5,960m/19,600ft.). Pasang was already there and gingerly waiting for us and encouraging us. I kept walking at the same slow painful pace until my feet got me there and I could sit down to catch my breath. Nothing mattered to me until I took a few minutes to breathe and drink. At such heights, air is like water in the desert.
Hugs and congratulations were exchanged with my buddies. I looked around and saw the majestic Great Himalayan Range extending to endless horizons all around me. On one side was India and on the other, Tibet. The political borders invented by humans all melted away and it did not matter which side was which. The world seemed united and more grandiose than humanity could ever be. I savoured the feeling of being so far away from everyone. And especially, away from all civilization, politics, and rules. Here there were other kinds of rules dictated by other kinds of powers. After all, I started mountaineering to find this feeling.
There was not much time for it all to sink in as we had to go down. Kaushal was reading a risk of avalanche on the left side of the trail. Even if it was not on our path, Kaushal still preferred to get moving to get us out of the high danger zone. I focused on walking down carefully with regular footing. I always remember that most accidents happen on the way down, when energy is depleted and the brain does not work normally. And so, I put all my energy and concentration into one thought: “I want to keep on living. I must come down alive. I do not come to the mountains to die, but to live! The ascension ends down at the base camp, not the peak. The mountain peak is only half of the battle.” On the way, the Himalayas continued standing gloriously in front of us, offering unforgettable views and sensations. I was grateful to the mountain for offering us an impeccable climate. The sun was getting stronger and the snow was beginning to melt. I was practicing my walking technique, freshly taught by Kaushal, who was not just my guide but a true mentor. After falling through the steep melting snow up to our knees during many steps, we arrived exhausted to the tent and ate a well-deserved delicious dinner before collapsing to sleep at sunset.
There was not much time for it all to sink in as we had to go down. Kaushal was reading a risk of avalanche on the left side of the trail. Even if it was not on our path, Kaushal still preferred to get moving to get us out of the high danger zone. I focused on walking down carefully with regular footing. I always remember that most accidents happen on the way down, when energy is depleted and the brain does not work normally. And so, I put all my energy and concentration into one thought: “I want to keep on living. I must come down alive. I do not come to the mountains to die, but to live! The ascension ends down at the base camp, not the peak. The mountain peak is only half of the battle.” On the way, the Himalayas continued standing gloriously in front of us, offering unforgettable views and sensations. I was grateful to the mountain for offering us an impeccable climate. The sun was getting stronger and the snow was beginning to melt. I was practicing my walking technique, freshly taught by Kaushal, who was not just my guide but a true mentor. After falling through the steep melting snow up to our knees during many steps, we arrived exhausted to the tent and ate a well-deserved delicious dinner before collapsing to sleep at sunset.
Cherries on top.
The next day, we packed up and walked back to Kibber. On the way back, the Great Himalayan Range accompanied us all the way down. Our bird’s eye view was slowly fading back to “human eye-level.” So few humans can see such perspectives. Virgin peaks waiting to be explored surrounded us. I had a feeling my hard work had made Spiti Valley unique for me. At Kibber, a spicy Thali (Indian version of Dal Bat) was waiting for all of us. I could splurge on food and spices once again. Alright, not too much yet! It was time to hire some cars to take us to the last sightseeing spots. I was reluctant to go as I wondered what else could impress me now after the intense yet spectacular experience I just lived through! Once again, I was mistaken.
We arrived to the impressive Chicham Bridge, which is Asia’s highest bridge (4,145m/13,596ft.). Breathtaking views of large rocky canyons surrounded us as well as a view to Kanamo Mountain in the distance. We continued our visit to the highest post office, in Hikkim (4,440m/14,567 ft.). Just two kilometres away, Komic stands as the highest village connected to a road (4,580m/15,027 ft.). We made a quick stop at Langza, the fossil village which brought us back to prehistoric times when Spiti Valley was under the sea. Just as the clouds started to form for a downpour, we arrived to the statue of a Big Buddha in Rangrik. I was astonished that it was the only big Buddha I saw in this deeply Buddhist region in eight days. The domineering colourful statue was there to remind us of the cultural, historical and spiritual background of the land and its people. Kaushal’s eagle eye caught mountain goats (or Blue Sheep as they are called in the Himalayan region) feeding on the edge of a mountain. What an amazing way to finish a trip that blew all my expectations away.
My cake was complete with icy creamy filling and some cherries on top. I was able to experience Spiti and Pin valleys culturally, historically, and from a mountaineer’s point of view. Seeing the mountains in front of me and from up high was worth every penny and bit of pain. The learning experience and growth from my mentors was priceless. It was now time for some well-deserved rest from the rough, dry, windy and cold climate of the high altitudes, and to head back to Shimla on another long and adventurous road!
May the wishes of peace and love be multiplied by the winds of the Great Mountains, and spread throughout the Himalayas and reach the whole world
